The Alhambra is certainly one of the most beautiful places on Earth and represents the peak of Muslim architecture in Spain. Originally it was built as a crude fortress on a rocky outcrop overlooking the fertile plains of Granada. From this vantage point high above the Darro river the Muslims controlled their final kingdom in Europe. Over the years the Nasrid nobility extended and remodelled the Alhambra into the beautiful and lavish palace that remains today. The modern city of Granada spreads out like a fan all around its foundations.
Although the slightly militaristic and stony exterior of the Alhambra may surprise you at first, as with all Moorish architecture the true beauty lies carefully guarded within. A visit to the complex actually consists of three parts and tickets can be bought for some or all of the areas. This, together with the fact that some parts can only be accessed at certain times, can make the process of buying tickets confusing. Hopefully this post will help you make the most of your journey to this stunning wonder of the world.
The most important things about tickets is to buy them in advance. In peak season tickets to the Alhambra can be sold out weeks in advance so don't just rock up and expect to be able to get in. Sometimes the queues at the ticket booths can rival the waiting times for Disney world's latest rides. Tickets can be bought online here and then you can collect them from the servicaixa cash machines (ATMs) at La Caixa banks throughout the city, or in the ticket collection machines at the entrance area of the Alhambra itself.
So, what are the three parts of the Alhambra to visit:
1. The Alcazaba (fortress)
This is the oldest part of the Alhambra and dates from the 9th century. It is the original defensive fortress built to defend this area of Andalucia.
This part allows you to clamber around the defensive ramparts and explore the remains of the Muslim barracks that was once present here. The best part of the Alcazaba is the Torre de la Vela, or watchtower at the far end of the fortress which you can climb to get spectacular panoramic views of the Albaycín across the value, the modern city below and the Sierra Nevada mountains behind.
Also if you're in need of refreshment, the octagonal hut near the entrance to the Alcazaba serves great cafe con leche!
2. The Nasrid Palaces
The palaces are the most worthwhile and visually impressive area of the Alhambra. This area houses the royal apartments, halls and courtyards that are an absolute marvel of beautiful ceilings, plasterwork and water features.
There are several palaces and many other rooms and courtyards to visit in this part of the Alhambra, each filled with exquisite beauty and elegance. You don't need a guide as there is a standard route that takes you through the complex - so just keep following the signs and everyone else! Along the way you'll come to the famous Patio of the Lions (Patio de los Leones) which served as the royal residence and such is where the delicacy of the architecture reaches its peak. No less than 124 marble columns support the arcade the lines the courtyard!
The Queen's Balcony, which comprises two layers of balustrades is the perfect spot to take pictures of the Albaycin and the romantic Paseo de los Tristes down below in the River Darro valley.
Also on the route you pass through the more modern areas of the palaces which were changed and adapted for use by Emperor Carlos V. Of particular interest are the furnished rooms where Washington Irving stayed and began to write his famous Tales of the Alhambra which helped put the palace back into international recognition.
When you come out of the main Palace buildings you arrive in what was once the kitchen garden (Jardines del Partal) now a decorative landscaped area which is dominated by the splendid Torre de las Damas (Ladies' Tower) with its five-arched portico.
3. The Generalife
The third part of the visit is the palace and gardens where the Sultans used to spend their summers. Built in the 13th Century as a retreat to overlook the main Alhambra palace, it can be found in a slightly more elevated position set amongst 75 acres of land.
The first part of the Generalife is the gardens which once contained orchards and pastures for the domestic animals and have been much modified over the years. Here you will find many cypress trees and rose gardens, with decorative pools and fountains dotted amongst the labyrinth of mosaic pathways.
Once through the gardens you come to the Patio de la Acequía which contains a long pool with delicate jets of water framed by white-washed walls and delicate archways. Although you cannot climb up the palace at the far end of the pool, screened windows set into the the rooms in its base offer excellent views over to Sacromonte.
Time Restraints
Your entrance ticket will usually either be for a morning or afternoon session. During this time you can enter the Alcazaba and the Generalife whenever you like. However due to the huge swathes of people flooding through the Nasrid Palaces strict entrance controls are in place. When you buy your ticket you will need to select a particular time slot - this is when you are allowed access to the Nasrid palaces. Note this is the ONLY TIME you will be allowed to enter this part of the Alhambra and if you miss the slot your ticket is no longer valid.
Therefore it's a good idea to make sure you arrive at the entrance to the Nasrid Palaces 10 mins before (follow signs from main entrance). It's also important to remember that it can take a good 20 mins to get from the car park to the entrance point so don't arrive late or you will be bitterly disappointed!
Other attractions
The three areas detailed above all require a paid entrance ticket. However what most people don't realise is that you can actually enter the rest of the Alhambra complex for free. If you take the Cuesta de Gomérez route up to the Alhambra from Plaza Nueva in the city you can access the centre of the site through Puerta de la Justicia without requiring a ticket.
Once inside you can catch some of the great views from the walls and visit the Palace of Charles V which is a large square austere building containing a bull-ring like layout inside, the Arab baths and the Church of Santa Maria .
Night Visit
As well as viewing the Alhambra during the day, there is also the option to visit at night to see the courtyards bathed in moonlight and the building dramatically illuminated. It's truly amazing how different some of the detail looks in different lighting conditions such as the ceiling of the Hall of the Two Sisters.
Ticket Options
So you've seen what's on offer - now let's talk options. At the moment, the following ticket combinations and prices are available (check the website to make sure).
A) General Daytime Visit
This offers access during the day to all three of the parts described above (Alcazaba, Nasrid Palaces and Generalife) and is the complete visitors package. Standard ticket price is €14.30
B) Generalife and Alcazaba
This ticket does not include the Nasrid Palace but allows you to access the other parts of the Alhambra during the day. As the star attraction is not included, the price is cheaper at €8.30 for 1 standard entry. If you're short of cash this is your best option, but to be honest if you've travelled all the way to Granada you don't really want to miss out on the Nasrid Palaces as they are, by far, the best bit.
C) Night visit to the Nasrid Palaces
This ticket allows you to enter at night but with access only to the Nasrid Palaces (i.e. you can't go in the Generalife or the Alcazaba fortress). Also we found the route around the palaces is slightly different at night but you do still get to see the main highlights. In high season you can get a night visit ticket most days but during Autumn and Winter they are restricted to only Friday and Saturday nights. Current price is €9.30. Remember you will be given a specific entry time just as the visit during the day.
D) Evening visit to the Generalife
For €6.30 this ticket option allows you to visit the gardens of the Generalife at dusk to enjoy the beauty of the cypress trees and rose bushes illuminated. Note this ticket does not allow you to go into the Nasrid Palaces or the Alcazaba.
My Recommendation
There are lots of options and it can be quite confusing to understand how everything works when you've not been to the Alhambra. So this is what I would recommend you do:
- If you are only coming to the Alhambra for the day then buy the General Daytime Visit (A). Get an entry slot in the morning as it is quieter and cooler (it can be around 40 degrees in summer!)
- If you are staying in Granada for a few days then get the General Daytime Visit (as above) but it would also be worth getting the Night visit to the Nasrid Palaces (C) a subsequent day if you can afford it. It gives you another poke around the palaces lit-up and the views over the city and the Albaycín are lovely.
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