The Cathedral

The renaissance Cathedral of Granada is one of Spain's architectural highlights, founded in 1492 by the Catholic monarchs that retook the city from the Moorish invaders in the same year. In its day, the cathedral was considered to be one of the most majestic churches in Christian Europe, rivaling even St Peter's Basilica in Rome. Work began on the cathedral in 1518 but due to design problems, financing issues and plan changes it wasn't actually finished until 181 years later. 

Due to the number of different architects involved and the changing fashions of architecture, the cathedral has a mixture of styles. The main facade of the Cathedral is composed of three large arches with the bell tower on the left hand side. The square in front (Plaza de las Pasiegas) is the best place to view this aspect of the building.

The visitor entrance to the Cathedral is actually on the opposite side of the cathedral on Gran Vía de Colón.  The entrance fee is €4, or if you have bought a Bono Turistico for your visit to Granada the Cathedral is included so your entrance is free (see our post on Bono Turistico for more info here). The route of the visit first takes you into the Sacristy which houses many paintings and ornate wooden furniture. From here you move into the main body of the Cathedral. The space is vast with giant stone columns throughout raising the ceiling high above. The first thing you may notice is the light. Unlike many cathedrals, the stonework is brilliant white from floor to ceiling which creates a very bright and calm effect.

The sides of the cathedral are dotted with smaller chapels in honour of various saints and religious icons. The star attraction of the cathedral however is the Capilla Mayor, or Main Chapel which resides at the end of the building which you entered first and creating a unique circular domed space. In contrast to the relatively plain interior of the rest of the cathedral, the Capilla Mayor is beautifully decorated with paintings, stained glass windows and gold. The ceiling of the dome is equally spectacular, with a multitude of gold stars set against a delicate blue background.

Finally if you think the bell tower looks a little unusual - then you're not wrong. In the original plans there were two towers on each side, each with four 'tiers' rather than the three that can be seen today. Construction on the tower was started during a period of strong seismic activity and it was decided that the foundations weren't strong enough to support the original 81m height that was envisaged!

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The Alhambra

Although up until now we have focused on things that you can do in Granada other than the Alhambra, a Granada Blog wouldn't be very complete without some information about Spain's number 1 tourist attraction!

The Alhambra is certainly one of the most beautiful places on Earth and represents the peak of Muslim architecture in Spain. Originally it was built as a crude fortress on a rocky outcrop overlooking the fertile plains of Granada. From this vantage point high above the Darro river the Muslims controlled their final kingdom in Europe. Over the years the Nasrid nobility extended and remodelled the Alhambra into the beautiful and lavish palace that remains today. The modern city of Granada spreads out like a fan all around its foundations.

 
Although the slightly militaristic and stony exterior of the Alhambra may surprise you at first, as with all Moorish architecture the true beauty lies carefully guarded within. A visit to the complex actually consists of three parts and tickets can be bought for some or all of the areas. This, together with the fact that some parts can only be accessed at certain times, can make the process of buying tickets confusing. Hopefully this post will help you make the most of your journey to this stunning wonder of the world.

The most important things about tickets is to buy them in advance. In peak season tickets to the Alhambra can be sold out weeks in advance so don't just rock up and expect to be able to get in. Sometimes the queues at the ticket booths can rival the waiting times for Disney world's latest rides. Tickets can be bought online here and then you can collect them from the servicaixa cash machines (ATMs) at La Caixa banks throughout the city, or in the ticket collection machines at the entrance area of the Alhambra itself.

So, what are the three parts of the Alhambra to visit:

1. The Alcazaba (fortress)
This is the oldest part of the Alhambra and dates from the 9th century. It is the original defensive fortress built to defend this area of Andalucia.

 
This part allows you to clamber around the defensive ramparts and explore the remains of the Muslim barracks that was once present here. The best part of the Alcazaba is the Torre de la Vela, or watchtower at the far end of the fortress which you can climb to get spectacular panoramic views of the Albaycín across the value, the modern city below and the Sierra Nevada mountains behind.

Also if you're in need of refreshment, the octagonal hut near the entrance to the Alcazaba serves great cafe con leche! 

2. The Nasrid Palaces
The palaces are the most worthwhile and visually impressive area of the Alhambra. This area houses the royal apartments, halls and courtyards that are an absolute marvel of beautiful ceilings, plasterwork and water features.

There are several palaces and many other rooms and courtyards to visit in this part of the Alhambra, each filled with exquisite beauty and elegance. You don't need a guide as there is a standard route that takes you through the complex - so just keep following the signs and everyone else! Along the way you'll come to the famous Patio of the Lions (Patio de los Leones) which served as the royal residence and such is where the delicacy of the architecture reaches its peak. No less than 124 marble columns support the arcade the lines the courtyard!

The Queen's Balcony, which comprises two layers of balustrades is the perfect spot to take pictures of the Albaycin and the romantic Paseo de los Tristes down below in the River Darro valley.

Also on the route you pass through the more modern areas of the palaces which were changed and adapted for use by Emperor Carlos V. Of particular interest are the furnished rooms where Washington Irving stayed and began to write his famous Tales of the Alhambra which helped put the palace back into international recognition.

When you come out of the main Palace buildings you arrive in what was once the kitchen garden (Jardines del Partal) now a decorative landscaped area which is dominated by the splendid Torre de las Damas (Ladies' Tower) with its five-arched portico.

3. The Generalife
The third part of the visit is the palace and gardens where the Sultans used to spend their summers. Built in the 13th Century as a retreat to overlook the main Alhambra palace, it can be found in a slightly more elevated position set amongst 75 acres of land.

The first part of the Generalife is the gardens which once contained orchards and pastures for the domestic animals and have been much modified over the years. Here you will find many cypress trees and rose gardens, with decorative pools and fountains dotted amongst the labyrinth of mosaic pathways.

Once through the gardens you come to the Patio de la Acequía which contains a long pool with delicate jets of water framed by white-washed walls and delicate archways. Although you cannot climb up the palace at the far end of the pool, screened windows set into the the rooms in its base offer excellent views over to Sacromonte.

Time Restraints
Your entrance ticket will usually either be for a morning or afternoon session. During this time you can enter the Alcazaba and the Generalife whenever you like. However due to the huge swathes of people flooding through the Nasrid Palaces strict entrance controls are in place. When you buy your ticket you will need to select a particular time slot - this is when you are allowed access to the Nasrid palaces. Note this is the ONLY TIME you will be allowed to enter this part of the Alhambra and if you miss the slot your ticket is no longer valid. 

Therefore it's a good idea to make sure you arrive at the entrance to the Nasrid Palaces 10 mins before (follow signs from main entrance). It's also important to remember that it can take a good 20 mins to get from the car park to the entrance point so don't arrive late or you will be bitterly disappointed!

Other attractions
The three areas detailed above all require a paid entrance ticket. However what most people don't realise is that you can actually enter the rest of the Alhambra complex for free. If you take the Cuesta de Gomérez route up to the Alhambra from Plaza Nueva in the city you can access the centre of the site through Puerta de la Justicia without requiring a ticket.

Once inside you can catch some of the great views from the walls and visit the Palace of Charles V which is a large square austere building containing a bull-ring like layout inside, the Arab baths and the Church of Santa Maria .

Night Visit
As well as viewing the Alhambra during the day, there is also the option to visit at night to see the courtyards bathed in moonlight and the building dramatically illuminated. It's truly amazing how different some of the detail looks in different lighting conditions such as the ceiling of the Hall of the Two Sisters.

Ticket Options
So you've seen what's on offer - now let's talk options. At the moment, the following ticket combinations and prices are available (check the website to make sure).

A) General Daytime Visit
This offers access during the day to all three of the parts described above (Alcazaba, Nasrid Palaces and Generalife) and is the complete visitors package. Standard ticket price is €14.30

B) Generalife and Alcazaba
This ticket does not include the Nasrid Palace but allows you to access the other parts of the Alhambra during the day. As the star attraction is not included, the price is cheaper at €8.30 for 1 standard entry. If you're short of cash this is your best option, but to be honest if you've travelled all the way to Granada you don't really want to miss out on the Nasrid Palaces as they are, by far, the best bit.

C) Night visit to the Nasrid Palaces
This ticket allows you to enter at night but with access only to the Nasrid Palaces (i.e. you can't go in the Generalife or the Alcazaba fortress). Also we found the route around the palaces is slightly different at night but you do still get to see the main highlights. In high season you can get a night visit ticket most days but during Autumn and Winter they are restricted to only Friday and Saturday nights. Current price is €9.30. Remember you will be given a specific entry time just as the visit during the day.

D) Evening visit to the Generalife
For €6.30 this ticket option allows you to visit the gardens of the Generalife at dusk to enjoy the beauty of the cypress trees and rose bushes illuminated. Note this ticket does not allow you to go into the Nasrid Palaces or the Alcazaba.

My Recommendation
There are lots of options and it can be quite confusing to understand how everything works when you've not been to the Alhambra. So this is what I would recommend you do:

• If you are only coming to the Alhambra for the day then buy the General Daytime Visit (A). Get an entry slot in the morning as it is quieter and cooler (it can be around 40 degrees in summer!)
• If you are staying in Granada for a few days then get the General Daytime Visit (as above) but it would also be worth getting the Night visit to the Nasrid Palaces (C) a subsequent day if you can afford it. It gives you another poke around the palaces lit-up and the views over the city and the Albaycín are lovely.

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Monastery of the Cartuja

It is said that the Monastery of Our Lady of the Assumption, or 'La Cartuja' as it is more commonly known, was the Christian attempt to out-shine the Alhambra after the reconquest of Granada. It is certainly something you probably won't see anywhere else in Christian architecture!

It was started in 1506 on land that was donated by the "Great Captain" and three centuries later was still not completed. It was a functioning monastery right up until 1835 when the monks were expelled from the site. La Cartuja is located on the outskirts of Granada, near the university campus which shares the same name. It's about half an hours walk from the centre or the Albaycín, although the route is along one of the main thoroughfares of the city so I would recommend getting a bus - the number 8 goes from Gran Via and stops right outside the monastery. 


If you've been to the Monasterio de San Jeronimo in Granada, the first thing you notice when you enter La Cartuja is the similarity in the design of it's cloisters. The central courtyard dotted with citrus trees is surrounded by beautiful arches and the bell tower standing high above.

However once inside the similarities in style vanish. The interior of the church is extremely striking because of the intricacy of the stone pillars, which almost look like something from native American architecture rather than 16th Century Christian. In some ways they almost look like white stone totem poles supporting the ceiling and its beautifully painted dome. 

  
The sagrario is equally dazzling with an explosion of orange and black marble, and a beautifully painted dome in the ceiling. The amount of detail and colour is fascinating and truly hard to take in. From the floor up to the roof is a non-stop chromatic display that is unique, although often splitting opinion with people admiring the beauty or recoiling from the overt exuberance.

Whatever your opinion on the style, it's certainly well worth the visit!

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Exploring Granada - How about a Bono Turistico?

Having lived in Granada for 6 months now, and having shown lots of family and friends around the city, I feel well placed to recommend the Bono Turistico Passes.  These prove to be great value for money when you want to take in a number of the key sites in Granada (including the Alhambra) in a relatively short space of time

The options available to you are a 3-day pass (€25) or a 5-day pass (€30).  You may also be interested to know that children aged between 3-11 can use a 'child' pass that costs only €9.

What do you get for your money you ask?  Well, the pass entitles you to entry to the following places:

• The Alhambra Palaces & Generallife Gardens
• The Cathedral and Capilla Real
• Monastery of San Jeronimo
• Monastery Cartuja
• Science Park
• Museums (Belle Artes and Memoria de Andulicia)

You also have entitlement to free bus journey as well with the Bono Turisticos - 5 journeys with the 3-day pass and 9 journeys with the 5-day.  This is really useful, especially on a hot day, as you can take a bus up to the Alhambra (No. 30) or a bus up to the top of the Albaicin (No 7 or 31 or 35).  If you venture out to the Cartuja, note that this is not easily walkable from the city centre, so again you may want to catch a bus here (No. 8).   

Finally, the other great benefit of the Bono Turistico is that you can gain tickets for the Alhambra far more easily here that directly through the Alhambra website.  One friend found that on the Alhambra website, he could only find tickets for 1730 in the evening, but by buying the Bono Turistico, he had a pick of tickets every half an hour for the whole day!  Strange, but true. 

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