The Cathedral

The renaissance Cathedral of Granada is one of Spain's architectural highlights, founded in 1492 by the Catholic monarchs that retook the city from the Moorish invaders in the same year. In its day, the cathedral was considered to be one of the most majestic churches in Christian Europe, rivaling even St Peter's Basilica in Rome. Work began on the cathedral in 1518 but due to design problems, financing issues and plan changes it wasn't actually finished until 181 years later. 

Due to the number of different architects involved and the changing fashions of architecture, the cathedral has a mixture of styles. The main facade of the Cathedral is composed of three large arches with the bell tower on the left hand side. The square in front (Plaza de las Pasiegas) is the best place to view this aspect of the building.

The visitor entrance to the Cathedral is actually on the opposite side of the cathedral on Gran Vía de Colón.  The entrance fee is €4, or if you have bought a Bono Turistico for your visit to Granada the Cathedral is included so your entrance is free (see our post on Bono Turistico for more info here). The route of the visit first takes you into the Sacristy which houses many paintings and ornate wooden furniture. From here you move into the main body of the Cathedral. The space is vast with giant stone columns throughout raising the ceiling high above. The first thing you may notice is the light. Unlike many cathedrals, the stonework is brilliant white from floor to ceiling which creates a very bright and calm effect.

The sides of the cathedral are dotted with smaller chapels in honour of various saints and religious icons. The star attraction of the cathedral however is the Capilla Mayor, or Main Chapel which resides at the end of the building which you entered first and creating a unique circular domed space. In contrast to the relatively plain interior of the rest of the cathedral, the Capilla Mayor is beautifully decorated with paintings, stained glass windows and gold. The ceiling of the dome is equally spectacular, with a multitude of gold stars set against a delicate blue background.

Finally if you think the bell tower looks a little unusual - then you're not wrong. In the original plans there were two towers on each side, each with four 'tiers' rather than the three that can be seen today. Construction on the tower was started during a period of strong seismic activity and it was decided that the foundations weren't strong enough to support the original 81m height that was envisaged!

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The Alhambra

Although up until now we have focused on things that you can do in Granada other than the Alhambra, a Granada Blog wouldn't be very complete without some information about Spain's number 1 tourist attraction!

The Alhambra is certainly one of the most beautiful places on Earth and represents the peak of Muslim architecture in Spain. Originally it was built as a crude fortress on a rocky outcrop overlooking the fertile plains of Granada. From this vantage point high above the Darro river the Muslims controlled their final kingdom in Europe. Over the years the Nasrid nobility extended and remodelled the Alhambra into the beautiful and lavish palace that remains today. The modern city of Granada spreads out like a fan all around its foundations.

 
Although the slightly militaristic and stony exterior of the Alhambra may surprise you at first, as with all Moorish architecture the true beauty lies carefully guarded within. A visit to the complex actually consists of three parts and tickets can be bought for some or all of the areas. This, together with the fact that some parts can only be accessed at certain times, can make the process of buying tickets confusing. Hopefully this post will help you make the most of your journey to this stunning wonder of the world.

The most important things about tickets is to buy them in advance. In peak season tickets to the Alhambra can be sold out weeks in advance so don't just rock up and expect to be able to get in. Sometimes the queues at the ticket booths can rival the waiting times for Disney world's latest rides. Tickets can be bought online here and then you can collect them from the servicaixa cash machines (ATMs) at La Caixa banks throughout the city, or in the ticket collection machines at the entrance area of the Alhambra itself.

So, what are the three parts of the Alhambra to visit:

1. The Alcazaba (fortress)
This is the oldest part of the Alhambra and dates from the 9th century. It is the original defensive fortress built to defend this area of Andalucia.

 
This part allows you to clamber around the defensive ramparts and explore the remains of the Muslim barracks that was once present here. The best part of the Alcazaba is the Torre de la Vela, or watchtower at the far end of the fortress which you can climb to get spectacular panoramic views of the Albaycín across the value, the modern city below and the Sierra Nevada mountains behind.

Also if you're in need of refreshment, the octagonal hut near the entrance to the Alcazaba serves great cafe con leche! 

2. The Nasrid Palaces
The palaces are the most worthwhile and visually impressive area of the Alhambra. This area houses the royal apartments, halls and courtyards that are an absolute marvel of beautiful ceilings, plasterwork and water features.

There are several palaces and many other rooms and courtyards to visit in this part of the Alhambra, each filled with exquisite beauty and elegance. You don't need a guide as there is a standard route that takes you through the complex - so just keep following the signs and everyone else! Along the way you'll come to the famous Patio of the Lions (Patio de los Leones) which served as the royal residence and such is where the delicacy of the architecture reaches its peak. No less than 124 marble columns support the arcade the lines the courtyard!

The Queen's Balcony, which comprises two layers of balustrades is the perfect spot to take pictures of the Albaycin and the romantic Paseo de los Tristes down below in the River Darro valley.

Also on the route you pass through the more modern areas of the palaces which were changed and adapted for use by Emperor Carlos V. Of particular interest are the furnished rooms where Washington Irving stayed and began to write his famous Tales of the Alhambra which helped put the palace back into international recognition.

When you come out of the main Palace buildings you arrive in what was once the kitchen garden (Jardines del Partal) now a decorative landscaped area which is dominated by the splendid Torre de las Damas (Ladies' Tower) with its five-arched portico.

3. The Generalife
The third part of the visit is the palace and gardens where the Sultans used to spend their summers. Built in the 13th Century as a retreat to overlook the main Alhambra palace, it can be found in a slightly more elevated position set amongst 75 acres of land.

The first part of the Generalife is the gardens which once contained orchards and pastures for the domestic animals and have been much modified over the years. Here you will find many cypress trees and rose gardens, with decorative pools and fountains dotted amongst the labyrinth of mosaic pathways.

Once through the gardens you come to the Patio de la Acequía which contains a long pool with delicate jets of water framed by white-washed walls and delicate archways. Although you cannot climb up the palace at the far end of the pool, screened windows set into the the rooms in its base offer excellent views over to Sacromonte.

Time Restraints
Your entrance ticket will usually either be for a morning or afternoon session. During this time you can enter the Alcazaba and the Generalife whenever you like. However due to the huge swathes of people flooding through the Nasrid Palaces strict entrance controls are in place. When you buy your ticket you will need to select a particular time slot - this is when you are allowed access to the Nasrid palaces. Note this is the ONLY TIME you will be allowed to enter this part of the Alhambra and if you miss the slot your ticket is no longer valid. 

Therefore it's a good idea to make sure you arrive at the entrance to the Nasrid Palaces 10 mins before (follow signs from main entrance). It's also important to remember that it can take a good 20 mins to get from the car park to the entrance point so don't arrive late or you will be bitterly disappointed!

Other attractions
The three areas detailed above all require a paid entrance ticket. However what most people don't realise is that you can actually enter the rest of the Alhambra complex for free. If you take the Cuesta de Gomérez route up to the Alhambra from Plaza Nueva in the city you can access the centre of the site through Puerta de la Justicia without requiring a ticket.

Once inside you can catch some of the great views from the walls and visit the Palace of Charles V which is a large square austere building containing a bull-ring like layout inside, the Arab baths and the Church of Santa Maria .

Night Visit
As well as viewing the Alhambra during the day, there is also the option to visit at night to see the courtyards bathed in moonlight and the building dramatically illuminated. It's truly amazing how different some of the detail looks in different lighting conditions such as the ceiling of the Hall of the Two Sisters.

Ticket Options
So you've seen what's on offer - now let's talk options. At the moment, the following ticket combinations and prices are available (check the website to make sure).

A) General Daytime Visit
This offers access during the day to all three of the parts described above (Alcazaba, Nasrid Palaces and Generalife) and is the complete visitors package. Standard ticket price is €14.30

B) Generalife and Alcazaba
This ticket does not include the Nasrid Palace but allows you to access the other parts of the Alhambra during the day. As the star attraction is not included, the price is cheaper at €8.30 for 1 standard entry. If you're short of cash this is your best option, but to be honest if you've travelled all the way to Granada you don't really want to miss out on the Nasrid Palaces as they are, by far, the best bit.

C) Night visit to the Nasrid Palaces
This ticket allows you to enter at night but with access only to the Nasrid Palaces (i.e. you can't go in the Generalife or the Alcazaba fortress). Also we found the route around the palaces is slightly different at night but you do still get to see the main highlights. In high season you can get a night visit ticket most days but during Autumn and Winter they are restricted to only Friday and Saturday nights. Current price is €9.30. Remember you will be given a specific entry time just as the visit during the day.

D) Evening visit to the Generalife
For €6.30 this ticket option allows you to visit the gardens of the Generalife at dusk to enjoy the beauty of the cypress trees and rose bushes illuminated. Note this ticket does not allow you to go into the Nasrid Palaces or the Alcazaba.

My Recommendation
There are lots of options and it can be quite confusing to understand how everything works when you've not been to the Alhambra. So this is what I would recommend you do:

• If you are only coming to the Alhambra for the day then buy the General Daytime Visit (A). Get an entry slot in the morning as it is quieter and cooler (it can be around 40 degrees in summer!)
• If you are staying in Granada for a few days then get the General Daytime Visit (as above) but it would also be worth getting the Night visit to the Nasrid Palaces (C) a subsequent day if you can afford it. It gives you another poke around the palaces lit-up and the views over the city and the Albaycín are lovely.

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Monastery of the Cartuja

It is said that the Monastery of Our Lady of the Assumption, or 'La Cartuja' as it is more commonly known, was the Christian attempt to out-shine the Alhambra after the reconquest of Granada. It is certainly something you probably won't see anywhere else in Christian architecture!

It was started in 1506 on land that was donated by the "Great Captain" and three centuries later was still not completed. It was a functioning monastery right up until 1835 when the monks were expelled from the site. La Cartuja is located on the outskirts of Granada, near the university campus which shares the same name. It's about half an hours walk from the centre or the Albaycín, although the route is along one of the main thoroughfares of the city so I would recommend getting a bus - the number 8 goes from Gran Via and stops right outside the monastery. 


If you've been to the Monasterio de San Jeronimo in Granada, the first thing you notice when you enter La Cartuja is the similarity in the design of it's cloisters. The central courtyard dotted with citrus trees is surrounded by beautiful arches and the bell tower standing high above.

However once inside the similarities in style vanish. The interior of the church is extremely striking because of the intricacy of the stone pillars, which almost look like something from native American architecture rather than 16th Century Christian. In some ways they almost look like white stone totem poles supporting the ceiling and its beautifully painted dome. 

  
The sagrario is equally dazzling with an explosion of orange and black marble, and a beautifully painted dome in the ceiling. The amount of detail and colour is fascinating and truly hard to take in. From the floor up to the roof is a non-stop chromatic display that is unique, although often splitting opinion with people admiring the beauty or recoiling from the overt exuberance.

Whatever your opinion on the style, it's certainly well worth the visit!

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Exploring Granada - How about a Bono Turistico?

Having lived in Granada for 6 months now, and having shown lots of family and friends around the city, I feel well placed to recommend the Bono Turistico Passes.  These prove to be great value for money when you want to take in a number of the key sites in Granada (including the Alhambra) in a relatively short space of time

The options available to you are a 3-day pass (€25) or a 5-day pass (€30).  You may also be interested to know that children aged between 3-11 can use a 'child' pass that costs only €9.

What do you get for your money you ask?  Well, the pass entitles you to entry to the following places:

• The Alhambra Palaces & Generallife Gardens
• The Cathedral and Capilla Real
• Monastery of San Jeronimo
• Monastery Cartuja
• Science Park
• Museums (Belle Artes and Memoria de Andulicia)

You also have entitlement to free bus journey as well with the Bono Turisticos - 5 journeys with the 3-day pass and 9 journeys with the 5-day.  This is really useful, especially on a hot day, as you can take a bus up to the Alhambra (No. 30) or a bus up to the top of the Albaicin (No 7 or 31 or 35).  If you venture out to the Cartuja, note that this is not easily walkable from the city centre, so again you may want to catch a bus here (No. 8).   

Finally, the other great benefit of the Bono Turistico is that you can gain tickets for the Alhambra far more easily here that directly through the Alhambra website.  One friend found that on the Alhambra website, he could only find tickets for 1730 in the evening, but by buying the Bono Turistico, he had a pick of tickets every half an hour for the whole day!  Strange, but true. 

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Semana Santa

Easter is a really important festival in Granada (and the whole of Spain for that matter). The processions and costumes are intricate and reflect the traditions of this area. Different days of the Easter week signify different aspects of the lead up to the crucifixion and ressurection of Jesus. This is reflected in the different coloured costumes worn by the locals taking part in the processions

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Monasterio de San Jerónimo

San Jerónimo is an architectural gem in the heart of Granada. It was the first monastery to built in the city after it was reconquered by the Christians, and work was started in 1496.

Its majestic bell tower can easily be seen from several of the mirador viewpoints up in the Albaycín and it's a true landmark in the city. Depending on your approach, the first thing might see as you approach the monastery is the almost octagonal, domed exterior of the Sacristy.

Once through the entrance you will come out into the beautiful cloisters of the monastery which comprises 36 semicircular arches around a central patio. This part of the building provides a lovely stroll in the shade with great views of the bell tower above and the scent of citrus trees in the air. 

Off the central square patio are several chapels and rooms with interesting artifacts and insights to the life of the monks that live and work here.

The highlight for me of the visit is the main church within the monastery, also called the Sacristy. I think it is one of the most beautiful church interiors that I have ever seen, as almost every square inch of the walls and ceilings are covered in carvings and paintings. Despite the amount of decoration, the Sacristy remains stunning without being garish or overly ornate. 

There is an amazing amount of light that filters into the space which delicately illuminates over 1000 carvings that adorn the Sacristy.

A definite must for any visitor to Granada!

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Best Things to Do in Granada after the Alhambra

Many articles have been written about the Alhambra, and rightly so, as it contains a beautifully preserved palace, striking gardens and stunning views from the Alcazaba of the city below. Unfortunately though, many visitors come to Granada just for the Alhambra and don’t make time to explore the rest of Granada city. This is a real shame as they are missing out on some other great sites.

To get you started, here are my top 5 things that I think you should take time to see or do in Granada. There are many more, but this should give you a flavour of some of Granada’s main attractions.

1. San Jeronimo Monastery

This beautiful place is often overlooked by visitors as it is not located immediately in the centre of the city. As well as being peaceful and calming inside the main walls however, the monastery also holds a secret that is not well publicised. This is its church interior which will take your breath away. I have been to many churches and cathedrals, including many of the most famous in Italy, but the beautifully preserved painted walls here are probably the finest I have ever seen.


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Church within San Jeronimo Monastery

2. Plaza Trinidad and its surrounding area

This square sometimes gets overlooked but it is a lovely square where you can sit outside and have a coffee or beer. My personal favourite is to have a coffee with a tomato tostada whilst sitting outside in the sun, people watching. Once your have done this, you should walk down Calle Trinidad and take a look at the Botanical Gardens. These are free to enter and offer beautiful shade from the hot sun. While you are here, walk a little further down Calle Escuelas until you reach a lovely little square that houses the Iglesia San Justo & Pastor. This makes lovely photos. If you want to continue, walking, stick to Calle de San Jeronimo, a beautiful road containing a number of historical buildings.

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Antiguo Collegio Major, Calle San Jeronimo

3. Have Free Tapas with a small (or large) beer

There are not many places in the world that give you things for free, but Granada is one of them. Order a beer or other alcoholic drink at lunch time or in the evening and you will also be provided with a small tapas dish to keep your hunger at bay. The variety and quality of the tapas does of course vary from place to place but, if you choose carefully, you will often end up with a very appetising plate of bread and tortilla (vegetarian), potatoes with salsa, potato salad, fish dishes, chicken and chips or even traditional paella. If you choose the wrong place, you will just end up with a small plate of olives (not that there is anything wrong with olives as I love them!). Some good places for tapas in Granada are along Calle Elvira (particularly around the steps to the Albaycin), Calle Agua (in Albaycin) or some of the bars in Plaza Romanilla.

4. Carmen de los Martires

This delightful park is full of greenery, trees, lakes and shady walks. The house in the park also has a beautiful entrance which is reminiscent of the walls in the Alhambra. Wander round this park or just sit on a bench and enjoy the tranquility. My favourite spot is to wander up through the house until your reach a small pond where ducks swim leisurely around the attractive grotto in the middle. This park is easily accessed from the Alhambra as well as it is only a 10 minutes walk (and there is only a gentle slope to climb!)


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Carmen de los Martires

5. Abádia de Sacromonte

No trip to Granada is complete without wandering up through the Albaycin and along Paseo de Los Tristes. However, do not miss the beauty of Sacromonte either as, from here,

you get fantastic views of the Alhambra surrounding by its green valley. My recommendation is to wander up to the Abbey in Sacromonte as you can take in the views along the way and you get even more stunning views from up the top. Many people say that this is the ideal spot to sit and watch sunsets in Granada, and I completely agree as you get fantastic skies behind the Alhambra and city below. If you do go to the Abbey though, I also recommend taking the guided tour (around 4 euros each). This is an excellent tour that not only takes you through the Abbey and down into the hidden chambers below, but also provides you with a very detailed history of religious struggles in Granada and the brutality across the ages.

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Palacio de los Cordova

This 16th century palace is set in a tranquil setting near the bottom of Cuesta de Chapiz.  Originally it was built for the Great Lieutenant of Granada, but is now a local council building that houses the City Archives.  Although visitors can not enter the palace, they can wander around the pretty grounds and get views of the surrounding area. Follow @nwbridges78

Iglesia de San Salvador

This is the main church in the district and one which has preserved a Moorish patio and porch. Follow @nwbridges78

Abadiá de Sacromonte

This is one of my favourite places in Granada for the views, the tranquility and the amazing history that lies within its wall.  The Abbey itself is imposing and rings out its bells to the locals of Sacromonte.  To walk from Sacromonte to the Abbey takes around 25 minutes and is uphill all the way.  It is definitely worth the effort though for the views and to get a feel for the charm of the place.  It is also arguably the best place in Granada to view the sun setting from as you get to see the amazing sky behind the Alhambra and surrounding city

If you do make the effort to visit the Abbey, do not leave without having a guided tour inside the grounds.  Although the tours are infrequent, they are well worth the wait.  The history of the Abbey is immense and you will discover how the Abbey was constructed on this site, when the remains of Saint Cecil were discovered in around 1595.  Saint Cecil and a number of Christian followers were brutally murdered by the Roman whilst defending their faith.  The tour of the Abbey will tell you more and takes you down into the Catacombs below. Follow @nwbridges78

Mirador Cruz de la Rauda

This mirador is often missed as it is fairly well hidden of the main Albaycin to Sacromonte road.  It is however worth a visit as the views of the Albaycin are attractive allowing you to see across the whole of the district. Follow @nwbridges78

Plaza San Miguel

Plaza San Miguel is a great square for relaxing a enjoy a coffee or light lunch.  The Iglesia de San Miguel, which overlooks the square, was built over the site of a former mosque in the mid 16th century. Follow @nwbridges78

Plaza Nueva

Plaza Nueva was built by the Christians and named 'new square' to distinguish it from the square built by the Moors (Bib Rambla).  This is a busy place and one of the best gateways to the Alhambra, Paseo Los Tristes, the Albaycin or the City Centre. Follow @nwbridges78

Mirador de Cruz de Quiros

This viewpoint offers fantastic views of the cathedral and city below.  It is also right by the 'eye of Granada', a powerful camera obscura that allows you excellent views of the city in close-up detail. Follow @nwbridges78

Iglesia de San Jose

With its beautiful bell tower, converted from a minaret in the16th century, Iglesia San Jose invites you to want to move closer and see more.  Inside the church are many pieces of artistic heritage. Follow @nwbridges78

Iglesia San Pedro and Pablo

With its beautiful setting on the banks of the River Darro with the majestic Alhambra hill rising behind it, the Iglesia de San Pedro y San Pablo was the first church constructed in Catholic Granada with a rectangular ground plan. As well as the interesting murals painted on its exterior walls, the church boasts beautiful carved ceilings and paintings within.

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Iglesia de Santa Ana

This 16th century church, with its slender tower and pretty facade, is the first thing that strikes you as you walk towards Paseo de los Tristes from Plaza Nueva.  Lorca called it a "little tiny tower more convenient for doves" but its interior has some fine artwork and is makes extremely picturesque photos with the mountain backdrops. Follow @nwbridges78

Iglesia Santo Domingo

Although it is often overlooked due to its location out from the centre towards Realejo, the Iglesia Santo Domingo has one of the most beautiful facades of all the churches in Granada.  Its extremely well preserved mural paintings may have faded over the years, but they still hint at the former glory of this 16th century church.  Inside, the church houses a beautiful altar piece, chamber of mirrors and recreation of the last supper.  The statue outside honours Friar Luis, a chaplain to Phillip II who argued for religious tolerance amongst all faiths before losing his life. Follow @nwbridges78

Plaza Mariana Pineda

This square can be a shady retreat from the hot sun and houses many cafes and a very helpful tourist information centre.  The statue honours Mariana Pineda who was executed for treason in 1831, much to the anger of many inhabitants of the area.  Follow @nwbridges78

Mirador de San Nicholas

This is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful panoramas in the world and has been viewed by all manner of people, including Bill and Hilary Clinton.  What is magical about this mirador is that it seems to offer slightly different experiences at different times of the days.  In the day you can see the majesty of the Alhambra and the surroundings, whilst at night the Alhambra is lit up and is equally stunning.  A great place to watch the sun set. Follow @nwbridges78

Mirador de San Cristobal

This is the highest part of the hill on which the Albaycin was built and hence it offers dramatic views that can't be seen from any other part of the Albaycin.  From here, you get spectacular views of the Sierra Nevada, the old city walls and much of Granada city.  Follow @nwbridges78

Paseo de los Tristes

No visit to Granada is complete without wandering down the Paseo de los Tristes which runs alongside the river Darro.  Positioned below the Alhambra, you get wonderful views looking up and can just about make out the figures of people looking down at you and taking pictures of the Albaycin.  However, make sure that you do not look up for too long or you will miss some wonderful historical buildings along this road.  These include the Iglesia de San Pedro, Casa del Castril and the Cisterian Monastery of San Bernardo.  Along the way there are plenty of places to stop for a drink or, if the crowds get too much for you, duck down one of the side streets and explore the lower Albaycin. Follow @nwbridges78

Coral del Carbon

The Coral de Carbon, with its impressively ornate entrance, gives a glimpse back into the 14th century.  In ancient times, it was used as a coal yard and later for lodgings.  In Christian times, it was a corn exhange before being used as an oper air theatre.  This is something you can easily imagine when you step inside and look up at its balconies. Follow @nwbridges78

La Madraza

La Madraza was an old 13th century Moorish palace that functioned as a centre for studies such as theology and law.  In its time, it was highly prestigious and part of the heart of the Moorish city.  Situated right next door to the Cathedral, it is easy to overlook this building but its brickwork makes its extremely attractive.

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Alcaiceria

This used to be an extremely prestigious silk area frequented by merchants in Moorish times.  However, much of the original area was destroyed by fire in 1843 and what you see today is a reconstruction of how it used to be.

The Alcaiceria, just between the Cathedral and Bib Rambla, is a great place for exploring and looking at the various pieces of clothing or jewellery for sale.  As it is fairly narrow though, it can get very busy in summer. Follow @nwbridges78

Plaza Bib Rambla

This is an attractive square of shops which has an inner square of cafes and flower stalls.  Quite often there will be some form of street performance taking place to entertain you as well.  A square has existed here for nearly 1000 years and it was the focus of Muslim public life in the past.  It also still retains an attractive 17th century fountain as seen above. Follow @nwbridges78